When you land in Lagos Airport, take a deep breath and restrain from all urges to go back to the gate and beg them to take you home. It’s actually not that bad once you get to experience the essence of the second most populous city in Africa. Lagos is a dynamic place filled with life, unique culture and dangers, and to enjoy the authentic Nigerian experience, locals highly suggest visiting mainland Lagos. However, my stay in Lagos starts and ends in the islands, Ikoyi and Victoria Island.
At the center of Victoria Island is Palms Shopping Mall, more familiarly referred to as Shoprite. Shoprite is one of the very few places in Lagos where you will be able to find whatever it is you are looking for that meets your Korean standards. Do not expect too much because even with low standards you will be very disappointed; the mall has only a few stores and two big supermarkets, housed in a complex that can be covered in a 5-minute walk. Over to the more touristic markets, the Lekki market is a touristic must where you can purchase leather bags, traditional paintings, gifts and little gadgets at a relatively cheap price. Do not be fooled by the friendly pretenses: the locals at this market are masters of bargaining so it is ideal to call a price that is a fifth of what they offer.
Eating out is one of the few enjoyable recreations that you can find in Lagos. Although most of the food industry is dominated by the Lebanese, you can find anywhere from Chinese to Mexican to Italian restaurants with food rendered Lebanese-style. Prices are very bipolar in Lagos, with a nice meal at a decent restaurant above 3000N (naira),or around 24,000 won, to a local restaurant where meals cost less than 500N. Yam and suya are very typical Nigerian foods equivalent to our rice and kimchi. Yam is served either pounded or fermented with a taste reminiscent of, but not identical to potatoes. Suya is a very popular grilled spicy meat (chicken and/or beef) served almost anywhere. Keep in mind that locals eat yam and suya with their hands but you can also use the option of a toothpick. Jollof rice is African fried rice often served with fried plantains. They suit the Korean taste with its spiciness and is a West African must-eat.
Between the mainland and islands of Lagos runs the Lagos Lagoon, brown in color with empty bottles and the occasional floaters. Lagos sits on the coast of the Gulf of Guinea but the immediate beach along Lagos is not swimmable or approachable due to environmental problems, a major concern that plagues the city. The coast is lined with trash and the waves, where swimmable, are too strong with dynamic rip currents that even locals stay away from. An hour’s journey by car or boat takes you to the outskirts of Lagos beach where people and companies have beach houses to enjoy outdoor barbeques most of the year.
Around the city, you will see single okadas with three, four people on, sometimes mothers with babies on their backs and the driver carrying a huge package of anything between bushels of coal to chairs and tables. These okadas are a major form of transportation to most locals. Nothing more than a motorbike on the verge of breaking down, it is a convenient way to go around the city as unbelievable traffic jams occur in the morning, noon, around five in the afternoon and whenever it rains. However, most okadas do not have extra helmets and it is generally considered a very dangerous form of transportation among foreigners of Lagos. Okadas charge by the distance and it is also common practice to negotiate the price before setting off.
The dark side of Lagos is one common to all of Nigeria. The police are highly corrupt and they tend to ignore all reasoning when confronting tourists. Driving in Lagos, the police will stop you anywhere and ask for money for the weekend. All police officers in Nigeria possess AK-47 rifles and it is recommended that you do not pick a fight with Nigerians in general as they can easily pick out tourists or foreigners who are frightened and do not know their way around. Armed robberies occur from time to time in which not only tourists but also locals are targeted. Kidnappings are also a danger and it is always recommended to keep an eye out for scammers (heard of the Nigerian Letter?) in all forms, for instance groups that direct your car through deep water puddles to gain money by helping your car out.
A country with so many different aspects, Nigeria is a country that will leave you with a surprisingly different and unique experience from any other. You will be surprised to find what lies on the other side of the world on the distant continent called Africa.